Weekend Getaway : Bharatpur – A Birding Paradise

Located in Rajasthan just across the UP- Rajasthan Border lies India’s Birding Paradise, Bharatpur. The Bharatpur Bird Sanctuary or as it is nowadays known  as Keolodeo Ghana National park is a beautiful haven for birds both Indian and Migratory. This 29 square Km area of tranquility set in the lap of nature is a gem for bird watchers and for people who want a relaxed time far from the madding crowd, in a forest filled with colourful birds and lovely sounds.

For a place nestled in tranquility and considered as a birding paradise, Bharatpur’s location is far from remote. It’s only around 180 kms from Delhi, 22 kms from Fatehpur Sikri, 55 kms from Agra and 176 kms from Jaipur nearly featuring it on the Golden Triangle (Delhi – Agra – Jaipur). Therefore, it’s a very easily accessible destination for tourists and only a slight detour for anyone doing this circuit. However, despite its location and many tales on Bharatpur birding experiences, the place is still possibly under-rated and caters to a more discerning audience.

A BRIEF HISTORY

Named after the Shiva Temple within its boundaries, the Keolodeo national park was created many years ago. The region used to be severely affected by the frequent floods till an earthen dam was created to protect the area, which till date continues to help the area from flooding.

This birding paradise was initially created with a purpose to serve as the hunting ground (especially duck shoots) of the King Suraj Mal, King of Bharatpur and the British, a tradition which dated back to the 1850’s.  Infact, in one shoot alone, in 1938, Lord Linlithgow, the then Governor-General of India killed over 4,273 birds, such as mallards and teals

It was only later, in 1972 that the Indian government banned hunting activity and the park was turned in to a protected bird sanctuary. In a short while, this Birding Paradise attained global recognition when it achieved the World Heritage Site status in 1985.

BHARATPUR’S FLORA & FAUNA

Bharatpur is not just a Birding Paradise but also considered one of the world’s best-studied wetland ecosystems consisting of dry grass woods, woodlands and woodland swamps. It is a host to various microhabitats including trees, mounds, dykes and open water (with or without submerged or emergent plants). The Flora comprises of Tropical deciduous trees, dry grasslands, shrubs and many more. While the Kadam, Jamun, and Babul trees cover a large portion of the northeast region of the park, the Kandi and Ber can also be found here.

Varied Ecosystem at Bharatpur ( Image by beyondlust.in )

The terms, Bharatpur & Birding are literally synonymous not only because it is the nesting zone of a large group of birds but also because it is considered one of the favorite transitory homes for migratory birds across the globe. Bird lovers across the globe make a bee-line for the national park as it plays host to 366 species of birds, of which, 230 are from India.

In addition to being considered a Birding Paradise, Bharatpur National Park has more to offer with regular sightings of animals such as Golden Jackals, Blackbuck, Striped Hyenas, Wild Hogs, Monkeys, Langurs and lots more.

A Nilgai wades in to the River (Image by Bishnu Sarangi from Pixabay)

BHARATPUR BIRDING: COMMONLY FOUND SPECIES

Bharatpur is being addressed as a Birding Paradise because it plays host to a staggering number of birds and perhaps what is even more incredible is the sheer variety on display.

One is always greeted by the common resident birds including those such as Kingfishers, Herons, Egrets, Cormorants, Bulbuls, Storks, Cranes, Eagles, Peacocks, Vultures, Rollers, Prinias, Warblers and many more.

The Great Cormorant (Image by Bishnu Sarangi from Pixabay)

It also plays host to many Indian migrant birds who have flown in from the different terrains and geographies. Some of the more prominent ones include Ruddy Shelduck, Common Moorhen, Long-tailed Shrike, Purple Swamphen, Black-capped Kingfisher, Plum-headed Parakeet, European Roller, Ferruginous Pochard, Grey-bellied Cuckoo, Yellow-legged Buttonquail, and Yellow Bittern.

Purple Swamp-hen, one of the many indigenous migrant birds found in Bharatpur. (Image by Bishnu Sarangi from Pixabay )

Of the many migratory birds, there are some which come from really far away such as Siberia or from other distant locations like Afghanistan, Turkmenistan, China and parts of Central Asia. Birds from these regions include several species of Cranes, Hawks, Pelicans, and different types of parrots, Geese, Shanks, Ducks, Eagles, Warblers, Stints, Wagtails, Buntings, Wheatears, Flycatchers, Larks, Pipits and many others.

A Hungry Pelican Calls Out ( Image by NickyPe from Pixabay )

Other famous migratory birds include the Greylag Goose, Gadwall, Northern Shoveler, Common Teal, Common Coot, Common Pochard, Common Crane, and Sociable Lapwing.

A Common Heron takes Flight ( Image by manseok Kim from Pixabay )

All this makes Bharatpur a gem for nature lovers and one of the top bird sanctuaries in the world

BEST TIME TO VISIT BHARATPUR

While the bird sanctuary is open to its guests throughout the year, the summers are very hot. With temperatures rising to 47 degrees C between April and June, Bharatpur is best avoided during the summer season. Also, Monsoons main not be a great option for birdwatchers as the rain prevents spotting of birds, therefore hardly anyone visits during that time.

If anyone truly wants to experience Bharatpur for the Birding Paradise it is, the best time to visit is between December to February. Possibly Mid-January is the best time to watch the migratory birds around the Bharatpur sanctuary.

A Colony of Painted Storks who migrate in to Bharatpur at the end of December

One can also visit this place during the months of October to November but there is less probability of seeing many migratory birds. In winter however the mornings are often foggy, so that may ruin your spotting chances.

ENTRY TIMINGS AND TICKET DETAILS

The Keoladeo National Park is open for all Indian travellers with an entry fee of 115 Rs. and for foreign tourists the ticket costs around 500 Rs.

The park remains opens every day from 6 in the morning to 6 in the evening. The timings may vary in different seasons.

Accommodation: There is only one hotel inside the sanctuary; however, there are many guesthouses, circuit house and budgeted hotels in the town.

HOW TO REACH

Fly Down: The nearest airport to the Bharatpur bird sanctuary is in Agra at a distance of 45 km. Alternatively, one could get down at Delhi airport and hop on a train or taxi to cover a distance of 185 km (approx.).

Choose a Train: The nearest railway station is the Bharatpur station which is merely 5 – 6 km from the National Park. It has good connectivity of trains from cities like Delhi, Jaipur, and Agra (other major cities too). Some of the trains from Delhi are Kota Jan Shatabdi, Mewar express, Intercity express, and Paschim express.

Road Journey: Travel enthusiasts who have a craving for road journeys can cover their road distance of 55 km (approx.) from Agra, 185 km from Delhi and 176 km from Jaipur. One can also opt for bus services from Agra or major cities of Rajasthan.

Bharatpur Bird sanctuary is located less than two km away from the bus stand and around six km from the railway station. Since it’s a small city, traveling and accessing one part from the other is not a problem.

BHARATPUR AS A WEEKEND GETAWAY : EXPERIENCES & SUGGESTIONS

With a weekend approaching, we planned an impromptu getaway for a quick couple of days to Bharatpur combining it with a quick day trip to Fatehpur Sikri. My husband Dipen, Supratik my son , my 10 year old grandson, Aabir and I made up the tour party.

We started about 7 am, took the Delhi Agra highway making a turn to the Bharatpur road. This road is a bit bad in parts but not a dirt road. 22 kms after making the turn we reached Bharatpur.

SUGGESTION 1 – VISIT THE MAGNIFICENT FATEHPUR SIKRI, MINUTES AWAY

Not to be missed ! The Iconic Fatehpur Sikri is just half an hour’s drive away

We left our luggage at Iora guest house and then drove to Fatehpur Sikri around 20 kms away. This road was very good and we reached in half an hour. After lunch and a three hour visit to magical Fatehpur Sikri we returned to Bharatpur. It is worth mentioning that the magnificence and the history of Fatehpur Sikri needs another complete blogpost to do some justice

SUGGESTION 2 – STOP BY FOR SOME TEA & SNACKS AT TEA-LAND

It’s always nice to take a Tea break especially if it’s at Tea-Land, a place which serves great tea and snacks at nearly prepare at home prices!

On the way we stopped at an open air restaurant called Tea-land which has a variety of tea served in earthen kullars. We had masala tea and ginger tea- the best I have ever tasted! They also have various inexpensive but tasty veg snacks.

SUGGESTION 3 – INTERACT WITH AN ORNITHOLOGIST / WILD LIFE PHOTOGRAPHER

Arriving at our guest house we chatted with the owner Mr Devender Singh whom we found was an expert wild life photographer, knowledgeable about birds and a pleasant and caring person. Interacting with him gave us a new perspective on appreciating birds. He has a small collection of books on birds and wildlife- it was fun to glance through the books while hearing his stories.

The double storey guest house has around eight well maintained and clean rooms, freshly cooked vegetarian food is also available for dinner. Best thing is it is only a five minute drive to the bird sanctuary.

SUGGESTION 4 – HAVE A REALLY EARLY BREAKFAST BEFORE HEADING TO THE PARK

At the Gates at the Crack of Dawn

Next day saw us well rested and ready at 7 to visit the bird sanctuary. Despite not being too hungry, we had to have a hurried but fulfilling breakfast as we knew that we have to spend substantial amount of time in the park and hot food would not be available. We reached the sanctuary and inside hired two rickshaws to take us around.

SUGGESTION 5 – TRY OUT THE UNIQUE CYCLE RICKSHAW SAFARI

The Cycle Rickshaw Safari is truly a unique experience in itself

We have visited many wildlife national parks and taken safaris on jeeps, Canters and elephants but this is the first time we took a Cycle Rickshaw Safari. Each rickshaw charged Rs 150 per hour and we used the rickshaws for 6 hours. We were four people so we needed two rickshaws. Our hotel owner had told us we don’t need a guide as the rickshawallas know a lot about birds and act as guide if tipped well.

Cars, motorbikes are not allowed inside the park but bicycles can be rented by the hour. The rickshaws moved slowly with the pullers pulling rather than cycling.

SUGGESTION 6– LISTEN TO THE FOREST AND MAKE YOUR BINOCULARS AND CAMERAS YOUR BEST FRIENDS

One can have a great Bharatpur Birding experience with the help of two invaluable friends. A Good set of Binoculars and a Camera. While everyone uses phone cameras nowadays, If one has a DSLR/ Semi-DSLR / Tripod, don’t save it up for another day… this is your special day.

One our way, various birds were pointed out to us while hearing stories about their origin and habits. We saw the rare Brown headed Barbet, some bulbuls, a green pigeon and many Cormorants, some nesting on trees, some flying. These were in the dry zones

Spotted! A Brown Head Barbet…. A Good Camera and a Set of Binoculars is a must (Image by Bishnu Sarangi from Pixabay)

In the lake /surrounding wetland were many storks sitting on trees. Their babies were there too creating a big racket as they wanted to be fed. Several ducks of different types swam around unconcernedly while a few snake birds spread their wings to dry off while sitting on branches.

Nearby we saw quite a few egrets, nightingales and Kingfishers. Although many migratory birds had not yet arrived at the sanctuary, being November, still we did see quite a few birds. As we continued with our safari we saw several hogs crossing the road.

The vibrant colours of the Kingfisher always catches our eye and imagination ( Image by 振鐸 李 from Pixabay )

A piglet got separated from its mother and ran squealing almost next to our rickshaw. A python rested sleepily at the edge of the road, two owls peered at us from a tree.

SUGGESTION 7– VISIT THE TEMPLE FOR A UNIQUE WILDLIFE EXPERIENCE

Petting a Neelgai while it eats Atta from the Local Priest (Who brings up orphaned animals)

One of the most interesting things in our tour was a visit to the Shiva temple inside the sanctuary. Here we found many animals coexisting peacefully. The local priest takes care of orphaned animals like Neelgai, deer and monkeys. He feeds them atta balls, and they seem so tame. You can touch the deer and then move over to the pond attached to the temple.

Hey! Where is my food??? The surprised Turtle seems to be enquiring as a monkey snatches away an Atta Ball originally intended to be fed to him.

Here the priest calls the turtles that come, sit on the steps and gulp down the atta balls looking quite happy. Sometimes the monkeys snatch at the atta balls which might have missed the mouth of the turtle. It was an oddly satisfying sight to see the feeding and we were touched to experience the harmony among different species of animals and humans. All of us admired the priest- what a difference he makes to the lives of these orphaned animals. We made a small donation as did other tourists because the temple does not receive any government funding.

SUGGESTION 8– TAKE WALKS ON THE WILDLIFE TRAILS

An early morning walk on the natural trails are not only invigorating but offer a chance to catch a glimpse of rare sightings

One of the best ways of ensuring a great birding experience at Bharatpur is to start as early as possible (assuming the weather is not too foggy). The true essence of a Birding Paradise can be realized by taking the many walking trails. Not only is the walk pleasant, the walk more secluded and wild, but the lovely sounds of the forest and many birds who dot the isolated stretches makes it a not to be missed experience.

SUGGESTION 9– BE WARY OF THE HUNGRY BIRDS

A seemingly Angry always Hungry Bird peers closely at our snack

We all know of the “Angry Birds” game but if one stops by the Canteen at Bharatpur, once anyone starts eating, they are soon surrounded by some rather “hungry and greedy “birds who seem to be quite confidently staking their share on your food. While they are not aggressive in the least, one may be wary of feeding these birds as one does not want to affect their lifestyles with our food. But one look at their pot bellies makes us realize that humans have been indulging them.

It seems that humans have been feeding birds. Rancho, on just cupping his empty hands found some enthusiastic birds who were more than friendly

TO SUM UP: THE BIRDING PARADISE

We spent the whole day there and marvelled at the variety of birds. One of the things which struck me is that the  variety of birds which I used to see in Delhi quite regularly when I was a young kid, have disappeared ever since thanks to the pollution, telecom towers and other progresses made in the name of “development”. I found many of these birds flying around, chirping happily in these woods. I realised with disappointment on how selfish and ruthless we humans have become over the past few years as we seem to have forgotten the very essence of Mother Nature in order to make rapid gains.  Thankfully, safe havens such as Bharatpur still exist and are just a few hours drive away. 

Bharatpur is not just a Birding Paradise but a place for all Nature lovers

While we are not serious bird watchers, this tour ignited in us an interest in them and made us appreciate what a birding paradise has to offer even for normal nature lovers. The surroundings were charming and exciting, the weather nice and pleasant and the fresh air rejuvenated us…

With the sun on our backs, the serenading song of the birds, a flurry of colours….there was an enchantment cast on us… and we made a silent promise to be back next year…. 

SUGGESTION 10 – OTHER GENERIC SUGGESTIONS & TIPS

There are some of small tips worth mentioning which would help improve your Bharatpur Birding Experience

• Carry your own water, hat, shades, and mosquito repellent. Sunscreen will save you from tanning.
• Harming any flora or fauna species in the park is a serious offence. Watch and appreciate them from a distance.
• Do not feed the birds or animals. This is prohibited.
• To avoid any difficulty, reach the sanctuary at least one hour before the schedule. You have to go through the basic form filling formalities before you enter.
• A boat ride in the early morning or late evening is suggested. It is considered as the best time to spot the beautiful birds in the park.
• Patience is the most important virtue in any wild life park. Do not be in a hurry.

SUGGESTION 1 1 – MAXIMIZE ON YOUR WEEKEND GETAWAY

If you have some extra time on your hands, one may like to check out on these nearby places.

• Government Museum Bharatpur – Approx 7-8km from the National Park – A Museum built in a Haveli Architecture with a nice ammunition gallery a with a view of Bharatpur City. The Museum also lies within the Lohagarh Fort
• Jal Mahal at Deeg – A palace with fountains approx. 44 Km away from the Sanctuary

Have any of you been to Bharatpur or any other Bird Sanctuary in India or across the globe? Have you spotted any rare birds or are any of you any wild life photographers with rare pictures to share?

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